Pink City - Black Dust
Jaipur’s traditional architecture and modern life

Architecture fascinates me. It reflects the beliefs, values, and stories of its time, acting as a lasting testimony—like frozen mirrors from the past. The stories of these buildings shift with each look, revealing meanings that change from one viewer to another depending on their views and their values.

I’ve recently set for a month-long exploration in Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan- India’s land of kings, where I delved into its architectural tapestry, ranging from the details of traditional Rajput style to the bold expressions of modernist designs.

In the heart of the Jaipur’s pink city, the majestic palaces and fortresses stand as testaments to the glory, might, and beauty of it’s past civilizations. Yet, a contrasting narrative unfolds as black dust gradually covers it’s fading pink walls, eroding their stone and plaster; a testament to the constant damage of modern life’s pollution—a powerful and strong reminder of how time can wear and weaken even the greatest of achievements and monuments.

The pink city

Jaipur earned the title of “The Pink City” in 1876, when Maharaja Ram Singh adorned the majority of its structures in shades of pink—the color of hospitality—anticipating a royal visit from Queen Victoria of Britain. Today, this vibrant city captivates with its bustling bazaars, majestic forts, serene temples, and grand palaces, each narrating the stories of its inhabitants and their rich cultural tapestry.

City Palace

The city palace exemplifies Rajasthan's royal grandeur. Built in the 18th century by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the palace complex blends Rajput, Mughal, and European styles. The complex features various courtyards, gardens, and palaces, showcasing luxurious lifestyle elements, from intricate marble carvings to elaborate frescoes, highlighting Jaipur's urban planning excellence.

Despite continuing to serve as the residence for His Highness Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh, the palace mostly functions as a tourist attraction. During my visit, I couldn't help but observe the striking contrast between the majestic historical palace and the crowds of modern tourists, busy on their mobile phones—posting stories and reels, snapping selfies, and centering their experience around themselves.

Jantar Mantar

This park is home to a collection of scientific instruments carefully crafted to observe the positions and movements of celestial bodies. Jantar Mantar, meaning "instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens," was founded by Maharajah Sawaii Jai Singh II. It blends scientific exploration, spiritual beliefs, and political power. Built from masonry, these huge instruments provide remarkable precision in their measurements. I observed people as they wandered around the impressive structures within the Jantar Mantar park. I found it inspiring that, even today, these monumental instruments remain enigmatic to many. The visitors appeared small and lonely, traveling in a labyrinth of geometric forms and shapes.

Jal Mahal (The Water Palace)

The Jal Mahal, standing gracefully in the center of Man Sagar Lake in Jaipur, showcases a remarkable architectural feat. Its upper floor rises above the water’s surface, while the two lower levels remain submerged. Captured during a serene early morning, this 6.5-minute exposure reveals the haunting beauty of the palace, enhanced by the notorious air pollution of Jaipur. The constant erosion of the sandstone walls requires ongoing restoration efforts. Interestingly, as I was framing this shot, one of the restoration workers was painting the front wall of the palace, and the lengthy exposure rendered him nearly invisible, transforming a moment of labor into an ethereal blur against the timeless structure.

Panna Meena ka Kund

Stepwells possess a certain enchantment that captivates the imagination! Panna Meena ka Kund is a stunningly intricate stepwell located within the historical confines of Amer, Jaipur district, Rajasthan, India. While access is free and open to visitors who wish to admire its beauty, descending the steps is not permitted to ensure preservation. It took several moments for the local merchants and tour guides near the well to realize that I wasn’t a prospective buyer, which allowed me the delightful freedom to explore with my camera and fully immerse myself in the endless perspectives that this magnificent site has to offer.

Amber Fort

In the palaces and forts surrounding Jaipur, Jali windows, a type of Indian Mashrabiya, stand out as a hallmark of Rajput architecture, essentially linked to the pink city. The functional design of Jali windows served to provide shade and protection from the intense Rajasthani sun, while allowing a soft breeze to circulate within the palace. Moreover, their complex patterns enabled royalty to discreetly observe the common people, preserving their anonymity. At the Amber Fort, the Jali windows that frame the entrance courtyard are adorned with interlaced hexagonal stars known in Israel as “Stars of David”, charging this image with profound significance for me.

Approximately 7 miles from Jaipur, Amber Fort was constructed by Raja Man Singh to safeguard the capital of Rajasthan, Amer. Over the years, subsequent kings expanded the fort, resulting in a design that embodies elements of both Muslim and Hindu architecture. Crafted from sandstone and marble, the fort comprises four distinct sections, each featuring its own entrance and courtyard.

Wandering through Amber Fort, a misstep took me into a labyrinthine maze. I found myself wandering in an infinite tapestry of rooms, corridors, doors, and windows. Lost in history...

Anokhi Haveli

The Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing is housed within the Anokhi Haveli, a majestic 16th-century mansion nestled close to Amber Fort. Once known as Chanwar Palkiwalon ki Haveli, this historic site was acquired by the museum owner in a state of severe disrepair at the end of the 1970s. Following an extensive renovation that spanned three years, starting in 1989, the mansion was transformed. In recognition of its sustainable renovation efforts, the building was honored with UNESCO's Cultural Heritage Conservation Award in 2000.

The museum harmoniously integrates traditional culture, craftsmanship, and architecture. It stands as a masterpiece of restoration, paying homage to the traditions of the past.

Jawahar Kala Kendra (JKK)

The Jawahar Kala Kendra art center in Jaipur stands as a testament to the vision of Charles Correa, one of India's eminent modernist architects. His work intricately intertwines with local culture and materials, encapsulating the essence of the region. The design of the JKK is deeply informed by the foundational city plan of Jaipur, crafted by Maharaja Jai Singh II in the 17th century. This blueprint draws upon the concept of the ancient mandala of nine squares, which symbolizes the nine planets. Central to the JKK is an amphitheater fashioned from pink stones, with a circular stage at its core. As the day progresses, shadows caress the steps, providing a serene retreat from the relentless Rajasthani sun.

Hawa Mahal

The Hawa Mahal, Palace of Winds, stands as one of Jaipur's most iconic landmarks. Constructed in 1799, this remarkable palace reflects a harmonious blend of architecture and culture. Designed by architect Lal Chand Ustad, its façade is said to mimics the crown of Krishna. Uniquely, the palace contains no staircases; instead, it features a series of ramps that facilitate movement across its five levels. The structure is crafted from pink and red sandstone, seamlessly integrating with Jaipur’s distinctive pink city architecture. The palace is adorned with 953 jharokhas, overhanging balconies with detailed lattice work that offer views over the bustling bazaar and streets below. In the era of its construction, royal women remained shielded from public view, relying on these jharokhas to observe the world outside while maintaining their seclusion. The colored glass windows of the jharokhas transform sunlight into a mesmerizing display of multicolored patterns within the palace, casting radiant designs upon the floors, ceilings, and walls.

As the sun sets over Hawa Mahal, the palace comes alive with lights. The loud sounds of Jaipur’s pink city fade away, revealing the majestic beauty of the Palace of Winds.